Its nice to be back at the hotel in Jaco after a couple weeks of freezing my **** off in Montana. Too cold to snow! Meanwhile the east coast got two feet of snow.
And people were surfing in lake Michigan.
That's right. If you saw that part of step into liquid where they have the fat old guys surfing tiny shorebreak in Chicago, that was less than half the story. A friend of mine surfs with those guys and saw what was coming and said "Dont go out - they are going to make you look like beginners for a segment of the movie that will basically say - even fat old guys with no waves can surf." They went anyway, because they are truly hardcore. They wanted to be in the movie for fun. And they go to be hardcore for fun, not to get in a movie, so they didnt care.
Those crazy *****s surf stand up barrels, chasing around the vast lake Michigan shoreline in the dead of winter to catch wind driven waves in the icy waters. At the end of the session, they have ice on their wetsuit hoods.
Me, I will take warm water surfing in Costa Rica any day. I guess I'd much rather be warm than hard core.
here is a link to a photo of lake Michigan barreling
http://photos.surfline.com/view_image.php?pid=52871
see you in the water, or at the nicest hotel in Jaco!
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment